Native Plant of the Week: Great St. John's Wort ~ Hypericum ascyron

Great St. John's Wort ~ Hypericum ascyron (pyramidatum)


Great St. John's Wort is the showiest Hypericum species in the midwest. The large bright yellow, 5 parted flowers are over 2" in width.

A native of partly shaded, moist sites in woodlands, woodland edges as well as along riparian areas.

The single flowers open in early July above the tall branched stems. Great St. John's Wort forms a nice large cluster, reaching heights of 3 to 5 feet and 2 to 3 feet in width, taking a form more like a shrub than a herbaceous perennial.

The flowers last into August and are a favorite of bumble bees, syrphid flies and smaller native bees. They love to bury themselves in the many stamens.

The central ovary is quite dominant in the center of the flower and as the petals fall it is equally showy as it dries, browns and matures. The seed capsule gets quite hard and inside are 5 chambers containing many small seeds.



The seeds are easy to collect, and can be collected as late as early November. I break open the capsules and bang the seeds out into a white container. This makes it easier to see and sort the seed.

The leaves are large, oppositely arranged and clasp to the leaf stem. Their size and form are a nice balance with the size and arrangement of the flowers.

Great St. John's Wort is native to northeastern North America. See map below for range.
Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP).
2011. 
North American Plant Atlas. Chapel Hill, N.C.

Propagating Remnant Populations of Rattlesnake Master

by Jim Nelson
Could a poet be enraptured with a wild flower called Rattlesnake Master? 

Could a story teller be interested in the “rescue” of these novel shaped remnants from era of expansive Minnesota prairies? 

This plant’s name sounds more like a rock band. Eryngium yuccifolium is a long lived, low maintenance native perennial that seems to do well on a wide range of wet or dry soils. This plant is prized for its striking shape that adds texture to plantings. Larger plants can be a unique focal point in your garden. The plant is a host for some butterflies such as the Swallow tail.

Native Rattlesnake Master are best known for the yucca-like basal leaves that are bluish green and can be up to 3 feet long and 1/12 inches wide. The leaves are thick and parallel veined and have soft prickles spaced far apart along the edges. The leaf bases clasp the single, erect stem.

Flower heads are at the tip of the stem. Each of nearly spherical whitish flower head is from 1/2 to 1 inch in diameter and is made up of many small flowers. Whitish bracts stick out sharply from the flowers, which gives the flower head a rough, prickly feel and appearance. The heads have a honey-like odor and are in bloom primarily in July and August.

This plant was plentiful in the historic prairie of Minnesota. Interestingly the most northern natural occurrence was nearby our family farm in Dakota County. This population was noted in the 1994 County Biological Survey. The survey documented this small population (about 50 mature plants) scattered on three private properties but were imperiled by agriculture activities and invasive plants.

A few years ago we engaged the nearby owners, mapped the locations of plants and with permission gathered seeds. Preparing and propagating the seeds was quite simple. Separate the seeds from chaff with small screens, place them in damp sand in the refrigerator for about 30-60 days. In the spring plant them in shallow seed trays. Water sparingly but continuously. By late summer they were ready to be transplanted. We had a very high success rate. Like many native plants, you don’t have tall strong specimens until the second and third years.

We gathered, propagated and planted for couple of years and distributed them widely on our 28 acre planting to insure their survival. Later we supplied local native plant nursery (Kinnikinnic Natives) our seeds and were content for them to raise “our plants”. This freed us from the nursery tasks and allowed us to spend more time planting and pursuing other imperiled plant species.

This “species of special concern” has now has a broader and more secure presence in our area than it did 30 years ago. There are more than 300 plants on our restored prairie remnant. Newly propagated plants have also been return to neighboring properties and a goodly number have been sold by the plant nursery.

Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP).
2011. 
North American Plant Atlas. Chapel Hill, N.C.

Many vital conservation activities can be performed by amateurs on private lands with only a modest amount of training. The key ingredients are curiosity, willingness to be proactive and collaborate and always a bit of patience.


Rattlesnake Master is an interesting plant that suffers with a poor name that suggests a mythic antidote for a rattlesnake bite. We should give it more fitting name that celebrates its striking shape in our grassland heritage, e.g. prairie pride.

Native Plant of the Week: Cucumber Vine ~ Echinocystis lobata

Cucumber Vine (Balsam Apple) ~ Echinocystis lobata


The dried vines of Cucumber Vine are still evident this time of year as they hang from tree limbs and cover shrubs and grasses.

This common, annual native vine is found most often along riparian areas or wetlands preferring moist, rich soils.

The white, six parted flowers emerge in mid July in clusters (racemes) along the vine. Most of the flowers are male, just a few female flowers are interspersed.


Cucumber Vine grows a significant amount for an annual vine, reaching heights of 30 feet or more. It often climbs horizontally along low lying wetland shrubs, grasses and sedges. 

It will also climb vertically up trees clasping branches with its many tendrils.

The leaves on Cucumber Vine are very attractive, large and sharply lobed into a palm-like shape.

In early September the bladder-like seed pod develops, clothed with many sharp spines. Inside are 4, black shiny seeds. The pod turns a light brown as it dries, and eventually dried enough for the seeds to rattle around inside.

Seeds are available at some native plant nurseries if you have a good place to train this vine. It can be extremely showy when in flower, and equally attractive afterwards covered in seed pods. A full sun, moist location is ideal.

Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP).
2011. 
North American Plant Atlas. Chapel Hill, N.C.
Cucumber Vine is native to central North America, see map for range.


Dear Lawn, I'm Breaking Up With You

For Valentine's Day, I'm celebrating Less Lawn and the upcoming release of Beautiful No-Mow Yards: 50 Amazing Lawn Alternatives by local Minnesota author, Evelyn Hadden.

This book will inspire you to break up (literally) with your lawn and find more loving, peaceful, no-mow landscapes that reflect natural landscapes.

Many of the 50 landscapes featured in Evelyn's book are of Minnesota gardens - many of which are comprised of mostly or all native plants.


Q & A With Author Evelyn Hadden


Where and how does one begin converting their lawn in their yard to no-mow alternatives?
Photo Credit Evelyn J. Hadden
I suggest starting in places where you only go to mow, converting lawn that you don't use into a more rewarding (or just less demanding) landscape. Here are a couple of examples.


SLOPE GARDENS: Mowing steep slopes can be unwieldy or even dangerous, and turfgrass doesn't stop runoff. Instead, plant perennials that grow taller and physically intercept runoff, slowing it down so more of it will soak into your property instead of pooling on the path below or running into the storm drains.

Making a path along the base of your Slope Garden offers a great view of the plants without stooping. It's a nice way to showcase smaller gems and nodding flowers where they can be more easily appreciated. 

Photo Credit Evelyn J. Hadden
TREE ISLANDS: Most trees don't like to grow in lawn (and lawns don't much like growing under trees). If you have a tree in the middle of your lawn, make an island around it and plant ground-layer plants that naturally grow under trees.

Let fallen leaves accumulate in the island bed; they do the jobs of both mulch and fertilizer! They protect the tree's root zone from drying out, erosion, and compaction, and they will decompose into food for the tree.

Design away work and waste by adding island beds so that you can rake leaves off the lawn directly into those beds. No more bagging and hauling away your leaves, then buying and hauling in fertilizer and/or mulch.

What are some of the ways you can engage neighbors once you've started reducing your lawn?
Photo Credit Evelyn J. Hadden
Make sure the neighbors see you enjoying your garden. Why not invite them over to enjoy it with you? Give them a tour and tell them how it's changed your life for the better.

Toss some specifics into your conversation. Did you know that hospital patients heal faster when they have a view of a garden? Employees are more productive too. Plants filter pollutants out of the air and enrich it with oxygen, making it healthier for us to breathe. You can also talk about the money you saved: well-adapted plants will lower your water bills, and smart tree placement can cut heating and cooling costs.

Of course, showing is even better than telling. If your garden produces food, herbs, or cut flowers, share some. If your garden produces extra plants, offer those. 

Do you see signs that this is becoming a trend? 
Photo Credit Evelyn J. Hadden
When I started writing about less lawn over a decade ago, it was much more "on the fringe," but it is clearly moving into the mainstream. I think several trends are fueling this change. Recent droughts and water shortages keep reminding us that our drinking water supply is limited. Economic uncertainty leads us to seek less costly, more self-sustaining landscapes (which perfect turf is not).

Concerns about the quality and reliability of our food supply have prompted many of us to try growing some of our own food. And our lives are busier than ever, leaving us with less time to spend maintaining lawns we don't use.

This post is one of a group of Valentine's Day Tributes to Lawn Alternatives by different garden writers. Visit them all:

Native Plant of the Week: Mayapple ~ Podophyllum peltatum

Mayapple ~ Podophyllum peltatum


It won't be long before the coiled up leaves of Mayapple start emerging through the soil. A wonderful spring emergence, Mayapples are often found in large clusters in woodlands.

As the two oppositely arranged leaves unfurl, they open up into an umbrella like form creating a shaded spot for the flower underneath to emerge.
The shoots appear as early as the beginning of April in Minnesota. This photo was taken at Nerstrand State Park after a fall understory burn.

The two leaves are large, 6-8" across and lobed. They are thick and almost tacky to the touch.
You have to look hard for the flower as it opens beneath the cover of the leaves above at the junction where the two leaves join.

A 1-2" wide white flower opens in May, with 6 or more petals. It hangs downwards from the junction. The resulting fruit 'apple', is an enlarged yellow pod (berry) with many seeds.

The flower is reportedly quite fragrant, I have not tried to smell them myself. The whole plant is poisonous.

Mayapples like mesic woodlands in part to shade. They're a great plant to have come up around early flowering ephemerals such as Hepatica or False Rue Anemone. They do spread by rhizomes and will form a loose cluster.

They are native to eastern North America. See map below for range.
Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP).
2011. 
North American Plant Atlas. Chapel Hill, N.C.


Creation of a Prairie Pond

Another great pond project - thank you to Jim for sharing his process and story.

Why Create a Prairie Pond
by Jim Nelson
We created a pond to enhance plant and animal diversity on our prairie. There is a 28 acre restored grassland and prairie remnant on the Nelson Family Farm in central Dakota County, MN. This land had been part of the historic prairie in Minnesota and tiny prairie remnants can be found in this otherwise intensive agricultural area.

The creation of a prairie pond was the keystone of our multi-year prairie restoration. The pond connects restored areas with the historic prairie remnants. The pond allowed us to increase diversity by introducing plants that favored wet or moist conditions- a complement to the upland, dry landscape. The water would become a "wildlife magnet" that increased the interest in visiting this landscape for both creatures and people.

Studying Wetlands and Ponds
The old carpenter adage is "measure twice and cut once". We put a lot of effort in to planning the pond: what, where, and how. We made informal notes and stuffed them in a portfolio that included research of nearby wetlands, other reconstructed ponds, input from neighbors, conservation literature, notes on materials and advice from native plant nurseries.

Participation in the Wild Ones and Prairie Enthusiasts groups fostered informal learning from many knowledgeable persons. Since a number of ponds that we reviewed had problems with leaking liners, we decided to not have an artificial liner. A unique feature of this plan was to line the pond with a combination of local clay and self-sealing bentonite clay. Bentonite is a natural clay that has the remarkable property to greatly expand and fill voids when in contact with water. 

Develop a Plan
  • A summary of current conditions (elevation and drainage pathways) 
  • A set of restoration general goals: a shallow pond with no liner that would be attractive to songbirds, amphibians and small mammals. 
  • A schematic with dimensions for contracting (a gentle sloping basin with a 35’x45’ floor) 
  • A list of material including: preferred forbs, grasses and sedges 
Location
We chose a location with hydric soils, and watershed that exceeded 5x the size of the pond. The location was near the lowest elevation that logically drained the upland and that seasonally had damp or saturated soil. We tried to take in to account the needs of specific wildlife for habitat and also natural sight lines for people to view the "water hole" activity.

Vegetation
The plant communities were to follow the gradient of the slope. We chose plants primarily on their moisture requirements. Plants tolerating dry well drained soil were planted at the on the top of the slope and plants needing moist or wet conditions at the bottom of the slope.

All areas were open and had day long access to the sun. We needed a grassland and forb buffer to prevent sediment from entering the pond and to provide nesting habitat for upland animals. Existing vegetation (brome grass and noxious weeds) was removed by combination of non-specific (Glyphosate) herbicide and smothering with tarps.

Excavation and Sealing
The contractor to dig the pond was recommended by the County Soil and Water Conservation District. (Based upon drainage experience) The timing was mid-July when the ground was relatively dry and firm. The perimeter of the pond was outlined with lath stakes and the experienced contractor made successive passes to excavate, while gently banking the sides. After the basin was formed 2 truckloads of clay were delivered (from a local Aggregate supplier) and spread with a skid loader. The final dressing was a commercial bentonite clay (Supplier CETCO, product name: Volclay ).

Products are shipped with a Material Data Safety Sheet that specified proper handling. The clay was purchased through an industrial supply house. The clay is granular in form and shipped in 40lb bags. The bentonite was spread, raked to level and then rototilled in by myself to create the clay barrier. The leveling of the basin floor was confirmed by filling with water. At the time of excavation, we agreed on the route of equipment to minimize damage to adjacent planting and a plan to loosen soil compacted by equipment.

Planting 
Monkey Plant ~ Mimulus ringens
My plant list was well researched and the installation was planned over several seasons. It was based upon observations of nearby wetlands and recommendations of commercial native plant nurseries. The immediate priority was to stabilize bare soil on the rim and the banks surrounding the basin to prevent erosion.

I used plugs around the rim of primarily Little Bluestem (Andropogon scoparius ) and Blue Joint Grass (Calamagrostis canadensis) on the upper part of the slopes. We randomly planted Obedient Plant (Physostegia virginiana) one side of the pond and Monkey Plant (Mimulus ringens) on the other side.

On year one, we chose plants that had were reliably successful and easily identifiable during hand weeding. We used an auger attachment (trade name: Garden Gopher) on a drill motor to place planting holes. We strategically placed some silt barriers where we suspected problems with sediment erosion. The six acre hillside around the slope was planted with a Truax seed drill using short/medium grass native seed mix with some forbs, primarily legumes. The mixture included some oat seed to rapidly grow and hold the soil while the slower establishing native seedlings became established.

Replanting, Maintenance and Monitoring
Due to many family obligations and other priorities, planting of over 2500 plugs was spread over three years. Weeding, editing out unwanted species, and experimenting with new species were part of every growing season. The priorities the second year were to plant near or in the water, hand weed and begin more systematically to monitor wildlife visits.

The lower slopes of the pond were planted primarily with easily established sedges: bottlebrush sedge (Carex cornosa ) fox sedge (Carex vulpinoidea) and lake sedge (Carex lacustris ). After a couple years of building out a solid infrastructure of vegetation, we were free to add a large variety of plants, grasses, sedges and rushes. There are now over 30 different species. A prescribed burn was completed after year 3 as final cleansing of weeds and dead plant litter.

Summary 
The pond project was an exciting multi-year effort to enhance the attractiveness of our prairie by adding water for wildlife. Planning was huge part of the project. We paid close attention to the site layout. We scouted wetlands in our neighborhood. We benefited by getting advice, materials and services from local native plant nurseries. We were able to obtain a small grant (Environmental Quality Improvement Program) through the County Soil and Water Conservation District.

The SWCD would not share cost of excavation but shared cost of the seed, plants and the prescribed burn. Although, the excavation and lining took a single day, refining our project has continued over several years. Once established we continued to add diversity with systematic although very informal experiments to add breadth and biologic richness.

Native Plant of the Week: Marsh Marigold ~ Caltha palustris

Marsh Marigold ~ Caltha palustris


The bright yellow flowers of Marsh Marigold light up the roadside ditches and wetland edges in early spring. This common wetland marginal perennial native is a welcoming sight after a long winter.

The low mounding habit makes this native a good candidate for the home landscape - if you have a seasonally (spring) wet area in your yard in part to full sun and rich soils. It's also a highly recommended plant for use in raingardens.



Marsh Marigold leaves are heart-shaped, glossy and basal. They set off the long stalked flowers nicely. 

Flowers are 5-9 parted with thick sepals and are very showy 1 - 1.5" wide. Blooming starts anywhere from early April through May in Minnesota.

Seeds form near the end of May into June and are uniquely attractive. The star-like cluster of carpels mature and open along the upper edge to release the seed.

"The nectar and pollen of the flowers attract flies and bees primarily. This includes Bombylius major (Giant Bee Fly), Syrphid flies, Halictid bees, honey bees, and others."(Illinois Wildflowers)

Marsh Marigold is primarily native to northeastern North America. See map below for range.
Kartesz, J.T., The Biota of North America Program (BONAP).
2011. 
North American Plant Atlas. Chapel Hill, N.C.